BEAUTY CARE

Mass market readies for contouring

BY DSN STAFF

Last June, Sephora’s CEO Calvin McDonald praised the success of contouring products in the specialty chain. He credited the uptick in interest to a Sephora app that taught women how to achieve the look made popular by Kim Kardashian.

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

Contouring is a long-used trick of makeup artists to sculpture faces through optical illusions, but the app, combined with myriad how-to YouTube videos, opened the floodgates for demand for facial contouring makeup for non-professionals.

According to Sarah Jindal, senior innovation and insights analyst for beauty and personal care at Mintel, social media exposure ignited a 90% rise in the number of contouring items on the market. However, the majority of products — such as Clinique Chubby Sticks used for contouring, Smashbox Contour Stick Trip and Lancôme Le Duo — were relegated to prestige channels.

“The only mass options right now,” said one top chain drug store buyer, “are imports without a major brand name.”

But that’s about to change, and retailers are anticipating a sales bonanza.

Among the mass entries are:

  • Physicians Formula Super BB InstaReady Contour Trio Stick Blush or Bronzer that will roll out a stick with three shades in it, so a user can swipe the product. Retailers rank it one of the most promising;
  • L’Oréal’s entry called Infallible Pro Contour Palette in light, medium or dark;
  • Maybelline is rolling out Face Studio Master Contouring in two shades;
  • Revlon is readying its Highlight Palette;
  • e.l.f. offers a Contour Palette under its Studio logo;
  • Milani currently offers Matte Rose Powder Blush, which helps contour; and
  • Wet ‘n Wild will bring a value offer with its Mega Glow Contouring Kit.

While contouring is expected to remain a vibrant category, Ulta Beauty’s Julie Tomasi said the trend will be joined by highlighting and illuminating products, which are especially flattering for mature women. “Women today have access to more information and learn how to do these looks,” Tomasi said. “Highlighting works well to hide fine lines.”

And for those who need help mastering the tricks of the trade, such retailers as ShopRite are offering courses. At the newly opened ShopRite in Newark, N.J., beauty consultant Shanelle Smith said she’s planning educational sessions in contouring.

An added benefit of contouring: the process requires multiple items, especially the right brushes. Most makeup gurus recommend up to three brushes to accomplish perfect contouring — a cheek brush, a mid-size brush for eyes and a smaller brush for the nose.

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Ready-to-wear, natural-looking lashes

BY DSN STAFF

LOS ANGELES — One of the appealing aspects of artificial lashes is that looks can be changed with moods. During holidays, users can go all out with everything from feathers to jewels. Want a fluffy style? Ardell offers Wispies, a new collection to capture that trend. Those who want a glamorous appearance can opt for the new Double Ups. “We are also seeing consumers gravitate to very soft, tapered tip lashes,” said Jennifer Johnson, Ardell’s senior brand manager, adding a perfect solution which the company just created — Ardell Soft Touch.

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

Ardell also is helping make it easier to apply lashes, especially for first-timers. Its top-selling lashes are now preloaded into a patented applicator called Press On Lash.

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Mascaras, lashes volumize sales

BY DSN STAFF

Lead by incredible 60% growth in the brow segment, the eye category has been a bright spot for mass market retailers. According to IRI data for the 52-week period ended Sept. 6, eye category sales are up 5% to more than $2 billion.

(To view the full Category Review, click here.)

With those eyebrow-raising numbers, retailers are now looking to a slew of new mascaras and artificial lashes to keep the category on the upward climb. Mascaras, in fact, suffered somewhat from the attention on brows. Sales, according to IRI, were basically flat over the past year.

But that’s changing, buyers said, thanks to a new generation of products, especially Lash Sensational from Maybelline and Physicians Formula’s Eye Booster Instant Lash Extension Kit.

According to IRI, Lash Sensational is already the sixth-fastest-moving mascara in a crowded field. What separates Lash Sensational from the pack is a patented fanning brush.

But also gathering applause is the Physicians Formula mascara, which is credited with giving the appearance of lash extensions. Retailers hope the invasion of super-performing lashes will make the category less price sensitive.

And for those who prefer to “fake” it, the choices of artificial lashes are multiplying. With nail color slowing somewhat, such chains as Walgreens, CVS and Walmart cleared more space for such accessory items as lashes — and not just for promotional times like Halloween. More suppliers have entered the fray, including Kiss Products and e.l.f., which joins such evergreen performers as Eylure and Ardell.

IRI figures revealed that the lash category continues to plump up at double-digit dollar growth rates, up almost 17% in multi-outlets and 13% in the drug channel, in the 52 weeks ended July 12. Jennifer Johnson, senior brand manager for Ardell, credited the buzz created through celebrities, bloggers, makeup artists and overall increased awareness of products to booming sales. “New consumers are coming into the category,” she confirmed.

Kiss tapped makeup artist Marni Burton to deliver tips and tricks for those who want to learn to apply at home.

The biggest trends in lashes heading into winter are more fluffy lashes, multidimensional choices and natural-looking options. But, according to Johnson, there is always an audience for long, thick glamorous choices.

An avenue for retailers to grab more of their share of lashes is to create a destination in beauty with educational information handy. “Specialty stores like Sephora have built a big following in lashes with mini boutiques,” said industry consultant Allan Mottus. “Drug stores can do the same and enjoy an add-on, high margin sale.”

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