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At-home nail care still trending among beauty mavens

BY Antoinette Alexander

Women still love their nail polish!

Judging by the continued double-digit sales growth and the new products still flooding the market, the nail color segment continues to shine.

"Whether the woman opts to do it herself or go the salon route, nail care has an option to appeal to every age of woman. Getting a pulse check on the nail consumer is so very important right now. At this moment in time, nail is still a blue-sky, white canvas opportunity. We are just scratching the surface," stated Karen Grant, VP and global industry analyst for The NPD Group, earlier this year when announcing the findings of its March 2013 "Nail Care and Polish Consumer Report."

The report found that more than half of women ages 18 years and older have purchased nail products for at-home use or professional nail services in the past year. Supporting the findings that many beauty mavens are turning to at-home products is the most recent 52-week data from IRI.

According to IRI, the nail category rose nearly 11% during the 52 weeks ended June 16 at U.S. multi-outlets, with nail polish accounting for the greatest growth within the category — up 17.6% to reach about $896 million.

Expense plays a large role in why women do their nails at home, but it is not the only issue. Concerns about health and safety issues at salons and the convenience of at-home solutions are also factors.

Among the most notable developments within nail care at mass is the entrance of at-home gel manicures. Delivering long-lasting results at a fraction of the price as a salon gel manicure, these do-it-yourself products took the mass market nail segment by storm.

It is estimated that, within the next year, gel polish retail sales will more than double and come in somewhere near the $75 million to $80 million mark, according to Joel Carden, EVP of Pacific World, which markets the SensatioNail at-home gel polish.

Also contributing to the explosive growth are such innovations as adhesive nail stickers bearing wild colors and edgy patterns, crackled nail polish, glitter nail polish and magnetic nail polish.

Judging by the slew of new products on display at the recent Cosmoprof North America conference in Las Vegas, this trend shows little sign of slowing. While a majority of the products highlighted at Cosmoprof are geared toward the professional salon market, there’s no doubt that gel continues to be all the rage with such brands as Essie touting gel manicure systems on the show floor.

Recent launches for the mass market include Red Carpet Manicure’s light-activated nail treatments. The DIY light-activated gel nail treatments — Nail Remedy and Nail Recovery — help nails become stronger and longer. Also new are Cuticle Balm, Cuticle Elixir and Youth Crème.

CCA Industries’ Nutra Nail Gel Perfect is aiming to reinvent the pedicure with its new Nutra Nail Gel Perfect Walk on the Wild Side Pedicure Kit. In 2011, CCA Industries launched its Nutra Nail Gel Perfect, a gel-color technology that promises to set rock solid in five minutes with no UV/LED light needed, and now the manufacturer has developed the pedicure kit.

There’s also Belvada, which recently announced the launch of its GelMoment. The polish, which dries in 30 seconds with the Belvada LED curing light, eliminates the need for a base coat and topcoat, and Belvada is positioning it as the first one-step gel nail polish.

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Consumers still seek ‘magic in a bottle’

BY Antoinette Alexander

The anti-aging category has become quite saturated — not to mention confusing for many shoppers — but it is expected to enjoy growth going forward as the economy continues to improve and aging consumers continue to seek magic in a bottle.

"The economic recession didn’t hit this segment as hard as other beauty categories, but reduced consumer spending certainly had some impact," stated research firm Mintel in its February 2013 report on the U.S. anti-aging skin care market. "As the levels of disposable income slowly begin to rise, consumers may once again turn to more discretionary purchases such as anti-aging skin care. In addition, the aging population will continue to outpace total population growth, likely resulting in long-term growth potential for the category."

Mintel estimates that the category will see a modest turnaround beginning in 2013, which will grow by roughly 13% through 2017, reaching sales of more than $2.8 billion.

It likely comes as no surprise that Mintel’s research revealed that, among respondents, wrinkles and dry skin ranked as the leading skin concerns with regards to aging. Coming in next on the list were under-eye circles, age/sun spots and sagging skin. While dry skin can be an issue regardless of age, Mintel suggests that manufacturers consider highlighting how skin might need different types of hydration as it ages. They may also want to emphasize other issues that worsen with age, such as flaky skin, redness and uneven skin tone.

Already taking a page from this strategy are Vichy Laboratoires and Lumene.

Vichy Laboratoires, a French beauty brand, earlier this year expanded its Neovadiol range, which is for women 50 years and older, with the new Neovadiol Gf Lip & Eye Contours and Neovadiol Lumiere BB Cream.

According to Vichy, women over the age of 50 years represent 43% of the adult population in the United States and 75% of the nation’s wealth. However, skin care lines that target this consumer represent less than 10% of the overall skin care market.

In addition, Lumene, a European skin care and cosmetics brand from Finland, has developed Complete Rewind, a new anti-aging skin care line that leverages anti-glycation technology. The line is especially geared toward women ages 50 years and older. The line hit retail this summer.

Meanwhile, general anti-aging skin care products that do not target a specific age group continue to flood the market.

Among those is beauty brand Vbeaute, which recently announced its expansion into a handful of Duane Reade and Walgreens Look Boutiques this summer. The beauty brand is known for its anti-aging skin care and lip products formulated with Swiss Alpine rose botanical technology, a plant praised for its ability to thrive in even the harshest of climates.

In addition, Kathy Ireland, CEO and chief designer of Kathy Ireland Worldwide and women’s health advocate, is collaborating with board-certified surgeon Dr. David Scharp in bringing to the beauty market a stem cell-derived product brand called Stemáge.

Ireland and Sharp note that the unique aspect of the skin rejuvenation system is that it targets visible signs of aging through the proprietary use of human Mesenchymal stem cell derivatives, not stem cells, but rather active ingredients or derivatives of which stem cells are comprised.

Meanwhile, body anti-aging products are rising into the spotlight. According to IRI, sales of body anti-aging products rose nearly 12% for the 12 weeks ended June 16 at U.S. multi-outlet locations. The biggest gainer, according to the data, is private label, which enjoyed a 79% boost in sales.

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New, versatile skin treatments slick on sales

BY Antoinette Alexander

One of the hottest trends currently making waves in the beauty industry is oil. Whether it is rose hip seed oil, Argan oil, jojoba oil, olive oil or Kukui oil, incorporating oil into a skin care regimen is the buzz.

In fact, each month Sephora reveals its "Hot Now" — the most buzzed-about beauty products handpicked by its experts. Ole Henriksen Pure Truth Youth Activating Oil ($45) made the list for July. The potent anti-aging treatment features 100% rose hip seed oil and active vitamins A and C to brighten, repair and nourish skin.

A recent blog post, titled "You Look Like Sisters!" by The NPD Group, indicated that in prestige skin care alone sales of facial oils in 2012 grew by double digits over 2011, and more than doubled since 2008, according to The NPD Group/Beauty Trends data.

There’s no doubt that manufacturers are heeding the call. Lumene’s new anti-aging skin care line, known as Complete Rewind, includes the Intensive Recovery Beauty Oil. The oil is designed to help stimulate skin regeneration and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, moisture loss and other skin imperfections.

In addition, Crème of Nature recently introduced its 100% Pure Argan Oil for skin and hair.

Beauty brand derma e has developed its Skin, Hair and Nail Oil with Organic Argan and Jojoba Oils, plus Kukui Oil for an all-body treatment.

There’s also SILKtage Clear Glow from Emtage Beauty. This all-natural, multipurpose cleansing oil combines the powers of Argan, Camellia and Red Palm oil with the detoxifying properties of castor seed, broccoli seed and other botanical oils to dissolve makeup, dirt and impurities without leaving skin feeling tight or dry.

And let’s not forget about Bio-Oil, a popular skin care oil that hails from South Africa. It is formulated to help improve the appearance of scars, stretch marks and uneven skin tone. Bio-Oil has Pur-Cellin oil, which is inspired by the preen gland oil of ducks.

With the development of its new Age Perfect Glow Renewal Facial Oil, L’Oréal Paris is now bringing a concentrated facial oil to the mass market. According to L’Oréal Paris, it is a first-to-mass innovation that is designed to boost skin’s natural radiance and provides all-day hydration with a blend of eight essential oils.

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